Mosquitos

A 15-minute inspection routine is fundamental for every resident. You check your space. You check the shared spaces. You even look at the edges where your garden meets your neighbor’s. There is no need to tough it out and assume getting bitten is “just the way it is.” It isn’t. Some residents already enjoy near-zero mosquitoes while still living in open jungle houses. The difference is never magic; it is always a short list of eliminated breeding sites.

Communication is Everything

The neighborhood WhatsApp group is the correct (and kindest) place to flag anything—larvae, standing water, or just “way too many bites this week.” This helps everyone, especially the introverts who might otherwise suffer in silence.  Speaking up lets us fix it without friction.

Common Hidden Breeding Triggers in Eco Village

• Pot saucers and plant trays: Perfect dark chambers for larvae.

• Septic tank vents: Most are missing proper covers. Cloth is useless; it must be 1 mm stainless mesh screwed in place.

• Open septic access pipes: Check if your system is missing sealed caps; this creates hidden underground breeding caves.

• Drain channels: If they are backlogged with dirt or covered so you can’t see them, they are breeding mosquitoes.

• Water-tank valve covers: Without these almost always pool rain.

• Open pump box: An instant mosquito nightclub. A door helps.

• Elephant ears / Taro: The axils (where the leaf meets the stem) hold water. Add sand to the grooves or remove the plant.

• Heliconia: These require their own section, as many feel they are low risk. Bracts collect water and density equals risk. Fine as rare accents, but never use them as borders or dense walls. Why add risk when we have a thousand prettier options?

• Cut or fill bamboo ends: Even a decorative bamboo pole will hold water inside the internode if cut open.

• AC drip lines: If it ends on soil instead of gravel/drain, it forms a permanent puddle.

• Stacked spare flowerpots: Every rim creates a dark ring of standing water.

• Outdoor lamp bases & furniture: Check the recesses under sun-loungers and garden lights.

Our Positive Infrastructure

• Dragonflies: A single dragonfly can eat dozens to over a hundred mosquitoes per day.

• Bats: A single nursing bat consumes up to 4,500 small insects per night (hundreds of which are mosquitoes).
  If you strung nylon lines to keep bats off your roof edge, they didn’t vanish—they just moved. Consider adding a bat box instead; the village that feeds the bats wins.

The Rule That Keeps It Working

No fogging, no fumigation, ever.
One chemical treatment wipes out dragonflies, fireflies, bees, butterflies, and the frogs that eat the next generation of mosquitoes. We win by awareness, flow, sunlight, airflow, smart plant choice, and shared vigilance—nothing else.

Need a Second Pair of Eyes?

The mosquito workgroup is available to walk through any area with you. Just ping the Neighbours WhatsApp group. 

This place works because we treat the entire landscape as one organism and every resident as part of its immune system. When we design with nature and act together, mosquitoes simply lose their foothold.

Keep the water moving, the drains clean, and the WhatsApp active.

The Reactor
The system uses a separate tank that acts as a lung. Through natural fermentation of water, molasses, and organic material, it produces a steady, low flow of CO2.

The Result
This mimics the rhythm and volume of a resting person breathing.

The Byproduct
Because this process is natural fermentation, the waste product is actually an excellent fertilizer. When the team services the traps, this organic byproduct is often sent to local vineyards or farms.

1. The Capture: Physics, Not Poison

Normal light traps (zappers) rarely catch biting mosquitoes because mosquitoes are hunting for blood, not light.

The Synergy
By combining the Skin-Like Odour (Lure) with the Breath-Like CO2 (Reactor), the mosquito is convinced it has found a host.

The Mechanism
When the mosquito flies close to investigate the person, a suction fan pulls them inside a catch bag.

The End
They are not poisoned. They are simply held in the bag until they dehydrate (dry out).

1. Traps-as-a-Service (Active Monitoring)

You will notice the Mosquito Solution team checking these traps monthly. This is not just to change the battery or the bait. This is a Traps-as-a-Service (TaaS) model.

Data = Knowledge
They do not just empty the bag; they analyze it. Their biologists count the mosquitoes and identify the species (Aedes vs. Culex).

This data tells us if our mitigation strategies are working or if a new breeding site has opened up nearby. It turns pest control into an exact science.

Summary

This system is 100% biological and mechanical. It uses the mosquito's own hunting instincts against it, removing the breeding adults from the village without spraying a single drop of toxin. It is safe for bees, butterflies, pets, and humans.

Contact
www.mosquitosolutionbali.com

The Wet Blanket
The greater risk is often what lies beneath. When Teak leaves pile up, they act like a wet blanket over the forest floor. They block sunlight and airflow, preventing the soil from drying. This keeps the ground underneath permanently muddy and can hide small, cryptic puddles of water that are perfect for breeding but invisible from the surface.

1. Why Still Water Matters (The Snorkel)

The reason mosquitoes breed in a teaspoon of water on a leaf, but not in our large flowing streams, comes down to anatomy and physics.

The Anatomy
Mosquito larvae breathe through a tiny siphon (a snorkel) on their tail. They must hang upside down at the water's surface to breathe air.

The Physics
Surface tension is what holds them up. If the water is moving, like in our pools, or rippling from wind, they cannot latch on to the surface to breathe. They sink and drown.

The Danger
This is why protected ground puddles and curled leaves are so deadly. The water inside them is perfectly still, protected from the wind.

Summary: The Math of Neglect

It is easy to ignore a pile of leaves. But the math is simple:

1 Bottle Cap (Volume) = 1 Mosquito.
1 Hidden Puddle (under a leaf pile) = Dozens of Mosquitoes.
1 Waxy Leaf = A potential water trap, even if temporary.

The Field Rule: If it holds water, empty it. If it covers wet ground—especially under dense borders—rake it out and thin the plants. You must let the sun and wind in to dry the soil.

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Prepare the "Infusion"
Place a handful of grass or straw into the bucket and fill it halfway with water. As the grass decays, it releases carbon dioxide. This smell is irresistible to female mosquitoes looking for a place to lay eggs.

2. Add the Bti
Add a Bti dunk to the water.

• Tip: One dunk treats 100 square feet of surface water for 30 days. Since a bucket is small, you can break the dunk into quarters and use 1/4 of a dunk per month to save money.

3. Add the Stick
Place a stick in the bucket so that it rests on the bottom and leans against the rim, protruding out of the water. This serves two vital purposes:

• The Escape Ramp: If a bee, chipmunk, or bird falls in, they can climb out. We only want to kill mosquitoes.

• The Nursery: Some mosquito species prefer to lay eggs on a woody substrate just above the water line.

4. Placement
Place the bucket in a shady, moist area protected from the wind—the kind of place mosquitoes naturally hang out.

• Note: Do not place it right next to your patio chairs. The bucket attracts mosquitoes to lay eggs, so keep it a few meters away from where people sit.

• Sun vs. Shade: If placed in direct sun, the water may get too hot (over 100°F), which kills larvae naturally but might discourage mosquitoes from laying eggs there in the first place. Shade is best.

Maintenance

• Monthly Refresh: The Bti dunk lasts about 30 days. Once a month, dump the bucket (or pour it on a dry lawn), put in fresh water, fresh grass/straw, and a new 1/4 piece of Bti dunk.

• Floaters vs. Sinkers: Bti dunks float. If you are worried about animals removing them or rain floating them out, you can put the dunk in a mesh veggie bag and tie it to the bottom of the stick to weigh it down.

• Rain Overflow: If you live in a rainy area, you can drill overflow holes about 3 inches from the top of the bucket to prevent the dunk from washing away.

Troubleshooting & FAQs

I see things moving in the water! Is it working?
Yes. You may see "wigglers" (larvae). This is normal. The eggs hatch into larvae, and the larvae eat the Bti. The Bti disrupts their gut, and they die within hours.

• Warning Sign: If you see "tumblers" (the comma-shaped pupal stage), the Bti is not working or has expired. The goal is to kill them before they reach this stage.

Which bucket color is best?
Mosquitoes are attracted to dark colors. Black, red, and orange are most effective. However, the smell of the decaying grass (CO2) is the primary attractant, so any bucket will work.

Will this hurt other animals?
No. Bti targets the larval stage of mosquitoes and related flies (like fungus gnats and black flies). It does not harm bees, butterflies, fish, frogs, pets, or humans.

Support Local: "Begone Bug" (Utama Spice)
For a ready-made natural solution, try Utama Spice (a Ubud-based company following the Tri Hita Karana philosophy). Their "Begone Bug" spray is a blend of Citronella, Clove Bud, and Cajeput oil. It is effective, locally made, and safe for the skin.

DIY: The Homemade Lemongrass Spray
If you prefer to make your own, this recipe uses the natural citronella found in lemongrass.

• Ingredients: 1 stalk lemongrass (chopped), 2 cups water, 1 tbsp Witch Hazel (optional), 15 drops Lemongrass Essential Oil.

• Make it: Boil the water, add chopped lemongrass, and remove from heat. Let it steep for an hour (like strong tea). Strain out the grass. Add the Witch Hazel and oil. Shake well.

• Use it: Spray generously on exposed skin. Note: Natural sprays evaporate fast. Reapply every 30–60 minutes.

The Heavy Hitters (Synthetic but Safe)
If the natural oils aren't cutting it:

• Oil of Lemon Eucalyptus (OLE): This is not the same as essential oil. It is a refined extract (PMD) and is the only plant-based repellent recommended by the CDC.

• Picaridin: If you hate the oily feel or smell of DEET, use Picaridin. It is odorless, non-greasy, and safe for gear. It mimics a compound found in pepper plants and blinds the mosquito’s sensors.

4. The "Invisible" Spray: Soap
Since mosquitoes are attracted to the bacterial breakdown of sweat, the most effective thing you can do before the evening hang-out is take a shower. Scrubbing your feet and ankles with soap removes the chemical lure better than masking it with perfume.

Summary:

• You can't change your genetics (CO2).

• Garlic won't save you, and beer makes it worse.

• Wash your feet, support local (Utama Spice), or brew your own lemongrass armor.

These "gloomy corners" create a perfect storm of Harborage and Cryptic Breeding.

• The Scene: Adult mosquitoes are fragile. They cannot survive in direct sun or wind. They need a place that is dark, humid, and wind-free to rest. A pile of damp garden waste (or a deep layer of leaves under a dense border) is the equivalent of a 5-star hotel lobby for mosquitoes.

• The "Teak Trap": Again, some of the Teak leaves are the villain. Because they curl into durable, waterproof bowls when they fall, they trap rainwater. Furthermore, thick layers of Teak prevent undergrowth from establishing, meaning the bare soil underneath stays permanently wet and eventually forms hidden puddles.

The Solution: Disturbance
A "gloomy, undisturbed" pile or border is a hazard.

• Clean the Floor: Do not let Teak leaves pile up under dense plants. Rake them out.  You can replace them with a layer of proper mulch. Unlike the waxy Teak leaves which trap water on top, mulch absorbs moisture and keeps the soil healthy without creating puddles.

• Let it Breathe: If your border wall is so thick you can't see the ground, it is too thick. Thin it out. Mosquitoes hate wind. If the air can move through your garden border, the mosquitoes will leave.

The "Green Water Containers" (Heliconia & Elephant Ears)

In ecological design, we often look for "natural" solutions, but sometimes nature works against us. Certain plants are scientifically classified as Phytotelmata—plants that naturally trap water.

In a residential village, these plants function exactly like man-made buckets or old tires: they are stagnant reservoirs that act as 5-star hotels for mosquito larvae.

1. The Heliconia Problem
The specific culprit is the Heliconia with upright flower bracts (often called "Lobster Claws").

• The Math of the Risk: Research shows a single Heliconia stem can hold up to 2 cups (500ml) of stagnant water.

• The Density Issue: One plant is manageable. But when used as privacy hedges or borders (often 100+ plants), you are inadvertently creating 50+ liters of distributed stagnant water right next to your home.

• The "Mosquito Hotel": Beyond the water, dense walls of Heliconia create dark, humid shade that blocks airflow—the perfect resting environment for adult mosquitoes to survive longer.

2. The "Elephant Ear" (Taro/Alocasia) Trap
These broad-leafed plants are beautiful, but they have a structural flaw for vector control. The "V" shape where the leaf stem joins the base acts as a natural cup, collecting rainwater that sits for days.

3. The Permaculture Solution
The goal of permaculture is a self-regulating system, not one that requires constant manual labor. Keeping high-risk plants requires weekly checking and draining, which creates a "maintenance trap."

The Protocol:

• Immediate Fix (Physical): If you have these plants, fill the water-holding bracts or leaf-axils with sand. This displaces the water so larvae cannot live there, without harming the plant.

• Routine Maintenance: Break off old Heliconia flowers before they begin to rot and turn into "larval soup."

• The Best Strategy (Design): Replace them. Designing the problem out is always better than managing it forever.

Safe Alternatives
You can achieve the same lush, tropical jungle vibe without the mosquito risk. Excellent, safe alternatives include:

• Ginger & Costus: Similar look, but they drain naturally.

• Cordyline (Ti Plants): Colorful and dry.

• Lemongrass: A lush border plant that serves a triple purpose: it fills space, it is culinary, and it acts as a mild natural repellent.

• Ferns & Palms: Classic forest floor cover that poses zero risk.